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Jewel of the Lakes

TIME FOR A BREAK: A cafe overlooking the River Rothay. PA Photo/www.cumbriaphoto.co.uk.

TIME FOR A BREAK: A cafe overlooking the River Rothay. PA Photo/www.cumbriaphoto.co.uk.

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G rasmere's most famous resident once described the Lake District village as "the loveliest spot that man hath ever found" – two centuries on, the sentiment still holds true.

Of course, beauty is all around in this scenic part of Cumbria, but the great Romantic poet William Wordsworth did not overestimate its attraction one jot.

At the very heart of the Lake District, geographically and culturally, Grasmere makes the perfect short break or weekend destination.

Thankfully, for an inexperienced rambler like myself, the landscape here is on a more human scale than the commanding heights of Scafell or Helvellyn.

Sturdy boots, a bottle of water and some sunshine is all you need for a bracing walk up Helm Crag, the peak overshadowing the village.

Popularly known as 'The Lion and the Lamb' or 'The Old Lady at the Piano', depending on which side you view, it is the first sight of Grasmere from the main road into the village.

Alfred Wainwright, the leading chronicler of Lakeland walks, described it as "an exhilarating little climb".

The route is well-marked from the centre of the village, and while the climb can be steep in parts, you needn't be a mountain goat to complete the walk in half a day.

Novices can expect to be overtaken by more serious Wainwright aficionados, decked out in waterproofs and equipped with poles.

But for a little effort and some scrambling, the views over Grasmere towards Loughrigg fell provide the kinds of panorama that so inspired Wordsworth to write his sublime poetry.

The late Wainwright chronicled 214 Lake District summits – now known as Wainwrights – in the 1950s and '60s, lovingly inscribing notes and drawings describing each of the walks in detail.

But you don't have to climb Helm Crag with one of his famous guide books in hand, as this walk is also available as a podcast – it's like having the craggy-voiced, pipe-smoking fell wanderer as your own personal guide to the route and views.

At just over 400m, this peak is merely a foothill of the Lakes, but Grasmere's central location makes it an ideal base camp for taking on such imposing heights as Scafell Pike, England's highest mountain at 978m, Helvellyn, Skiddaw and the rest.

Wordsworth took his inspiration from the outdoors, then went inside to write. I too, after an inspiring walk around Grasmere's great outdoors, went inside to the Lamb Inn, a cosy traditional Cumbrian pub back in the village, for a deserved drink of the local brew.

The first pint of one of Cumbria's traditional ales, such as Bluebird or Jennings Sneck Lifter, has never tasted better – and the honey-coloured liquid hardly touched the sides.

Some people might say that a real outdoor adventure should include primus stove, a sleeping bag and tent.

But rain-sodden, legs like jelly and foot-sore, I was more than happy to be watered and fed at surely one of the Lake District's best hotels, the Rothay Garden in Grasmere, run by Chris Carss and his team.

After a £2 million redevelopment, this is the newest four-star hotel in the Lakes. Its sumptuous bedrooms, chic lounges and gardens nestling by the River Rothay are an oasis of luxury after a day on the fells.

A recent addition to the hotel are five superb loft suites with some of the best views in the Lake District – binoculars provided.

But it is the Conservatory Restaurant at Rothay Garden that really sets it aside from its competitors. With two AA Rosettes, it is renowned for its hearty four-course menu and use of the Lakeland's abundant fresh produce.

With a menu changing daily, featuring dishes such as ballontine of quail, pan-fried pigeon supreme and Cartmel salt marsh lamb, venturing outside the hotel to eat seemed a real shame.

Grasmere is, of course, synonymous with Wordsworth, who was most prolific during the many years he lived in the village.

Famously in his best-loved poem, 1804's The Daffodils, he tells how he "wandered lonely as a cloud".

There is little chance of wandering too lonely in Grasmere these days – Wordsworth himself being one of the reasons.

Along with Rydal Mount, Dove Cottage – a Grade One-listed building – was one of his two homes there, and between 1799 and 1808 he composed some of the most supreme poetry in the English language while in residence.

A fascinating guided tour is available, and England's literary history seeps from the cottage's white-washed walls.

His furniture, portraits and family chattels are all on display for you to see where the master poet sat to down to write his immortal words.

Wordsworth's visitors at the time included his famous peers Sir Walter Scott, Thomas de Quincey and Samuel Taylor Coleridge.

Artists have always flocked to Grasmere, not just to write but also to capture the sublime scenery on canvas.

John Constable and JMW Turner were notable visitors, and the village is still providing inspiration to modern-day artists. Take your pick from any number of art shows, galleries and shops selling paintings and watercolours.

Wordsworth lies with his family in graves in one of the village's greatest attractions, St Oswald's Church – a simple but pleasant stone edifice dating back to the 13th century.

The lovely churchyard, with the River Rothay beside, is an oasis of quiet away from the busy streets of the village, and well worth a visit if only to see Wordsworth's final resting place.

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